Category: Grub Garage
OK, picture this: The year is 6000 BC and you're a member of a nomadic
tribe, probably in what is now modern day Iraq. For sustenance along the
journey,
your caravan carries milk in pouches made of sheep's stomachs. You stop
for lunch, nestle up against a walnut tree, and break open a pouch in eager
anticipation
of a refreshing drink of goat's milk. But wait. Something's wrong. What
once was a creamy and uniform fluid is now a mixture of coagulated masses
surrounded
by this thin, almost watery liquid. Congratulations Omar, you just
invented cheese! Now how did you do it?
Our early Mesopotamian wanderer inadvertently followed the same basic
cheese making steps that we employ today. Milk is combined with rennet, a
protein
found in the stomachs of sheep and cattle. It contains enzymes that
separate the milk into the liquid whey and the solid curds. The whey is
drained off
and the curds are then processed in multifarious ways depending on the type
of cheese being produced.
Curds that are not aged or "ripened" produce what is known as a fresh
cheese. Classic examples include cottage, feta, and mozzarella. If the
cheese is
aged, it is then classified based on its texture. There are soft cheeses
such as Brie, semi-soft, e.g., Muenster and fontina, hard, e.g., cheddar and
provolone, and very hard cheese known as grating, such as Parmigiano and
Romano. Finally, there are blue cheeses, such as Gorgonzola and Stilton,
so named
because of the color of the mold that is injected into them. Oh and by the
way, some cheeses are made just from the whey, such as ricotta, so yes, whey!
If you've ever treated yourself to a fine French restaurant, you're well
aware that it is customary to serve a cheese course at the end of a tasting
menu.
What decadence! Can you imagine an array of rich and exquisite cheeses,
(with the accompanying wines of course), to top off your gourmet meal?
But you don't need to visit a four star establishment to partake in such
hedonism. A homemade cheese platter is perfect for many types of social
gatherings.
I find it especially useful for those impromptu and informal
get-togethers. No need to cook. Just put out a variety of cheeses, add
some bread, nuts,
fruit, and of course some wine, and you're good to go.
When choosing the cheeses for your platter, be mindful of the
aforementioned categories. The general approach is to include at least one
cheese from each
of the textural classes, with the possible exception of fresh cheese which
usually isn't included in such a presentation. If you're assembling a large
platter with more than one cheese per category, select a mild and a strong
cheese within each subdivision. For example, for the blue category, combine
a Stilton, (which is milder), with a strong Danish blue. Now you can run
the gamut of textures and flavor intensities.
As for wines, the pairings follow a similar principle as with
food: lighter and fruitier wines with milder cheeses and more assertive
wines with stronger
cheeses. But of course there are always exceptions. Some classic combos
include Brie with chardonnay or champagne, blue cheese with port or sauternes,
provolone with Chianti, sharp cheddar with Cabernet, and one of my personal
favorites, Romano and Bordeaux, (although most Italians would scoff in favor
of a Chianti or Brunello di Montalcino). If you really wish to be
pedantic, a progression from lighter to more robust cheeses and wines is
typically
served. So now that you know the "book" version you can throw the book out
the window. Eat whatever cheese you like with whatever wine you like. Life's
too short for stodgy rules.
Turning now to cooking with cheese, here's a recipe for a yummy spinach and
cheese soufflé. This recipe comes from Lynne Kaplan, a chef who owns the
Victoria
House Bed & Breakfast in Spring Lake, NJ. For a gourmet B&B check them out
at victoriahouse.net.
SPINACH AND CHEESE SOUFFLÉ
Butter, as needed
1 package chopped frozen spinach thawed
1/2 cup cottage cheese
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese or Swiss cheese
8 eggs, separated
2 shallots, chopped
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup heavy cream
1 tsp. grated nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Butter the bottom of a 2-qt round
soufflé dish and place it on a cookie sheet. Squeeze the liquid out of the
spinach.
In a bowl mix the spinach and the cheeses. Beat the egg yolks until
slightly thickened, about two minutes. Sweat the shallots in some butter
in a skillet
until soft. Stir in the flour and cook one minute. Add the cream and
bring to a boil for one minute, stirring constantly. Remove the cream from the
heat. Temper the egg yolks by stirring in a small amount of the cream
mixture into them, (this will prevent them from scrambling). Then pour the egg
yolks into the cream mixture stirring constantly until blended. Now stir
in the spinach and cheese mixture, nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Whip
the egg whites until soft peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the egg
yolk mixture. Pour the mixture into the soufflé dish and bake in the oven
until
set, puffed, and slightly browned. About 45-50 minutes.
About the Author:
IMAGE
Mark R. Vogel
received his doctorate in clinical psychology from Yeshiva University and
his culinary arts degree from the Institute of Culinary Education, both in New
York City. Although he still practices psychology, his deepest passion
remains cooking at an Italian/Mediterranean restaurant in NJ and writing
about food
and wine. His column "Food For Thought" is published in a number of NY, NJ
and PA newspapers and food related websites.
Oo!!! I love chese!!! hehehehe I was born in the Chese State!!! But I won't try that souffle though. I don't really like spinach, although I loved the sailor man!!!
*sexy*
I love all the soft or mild to medium cheeses. Can't stand the very strong cheeses! Cringe! Broccoli and Stilton soup's very nice though.